Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their younger generation do not want to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to learn these narratives and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
